There’s something about stepping under a wide, gentle sheet of water that slows time down. A good rain shower experience feels like standing under a warm summer cloudburst, minus the wind and cold toes. It’s a small upgrade that can change how your mornings start and your evenings wrap up, which is exactly why more New Zealand homes are making space for a spa-like environment.
If you’ve been wondering what makes a rain shower different from a regular shower, how much water it uses, whether it suits low pressure homes, or how much to budget for, this guide pulls everything together in one place. With plenty of practical detail for renovators, owners of older villas, and new builds alike.
What a rain shower actually is
A rain shower is a wide, usually flat shower head that drops water vertically rather than blasting it at an angle. Most are 200 to 400 mm in diameter or width. The aim is even coverage, a softer feel on the skin, and less of that needle spray that can make you step aside while you wash your hair.
Key traits:
● Large faceplate with many nozzles
● Water falls straight down, not in a tight cone
● Often mounted from the ceiling or on a long wall arm
● Paired with a mixer that manages flow and temperature
Some designs are round, others square. Some are ultra-thin stainless steel plates, others use brass with silicone nozzles. The feel of the spray depends on hole size, nozzle shape, and internal flow restrictors, not just the head diameter.
Why so many Kiwis are into it
● It’s relaxing. Less sting, more blanket-like coverage.
● It looks tidy. Minimal lines, especially when ceiling mounted.
● It’s practical for families. Even coverage makes rinsing shampoo faster.
● It can be water smart when matched with the right flow rating.
That last point tends to surprise people. Big head doesn’t have to mean big water bill, especially if you live in an area with plentiful rainfall.
Types of rain shower setups
There isn’t just one way to do it. Your choice depends on plumbing access, ceiling height, pressure, and taste.
● Ceiling mounted
○ Cleanest look. Water falls straight down.
○ Needs plumbing routed through the ceiling. Best during a reno or new build.
○ Great in walk-in tiled showers.
● Wall arm rain head
○ Attaches to the wall with a long arm that positions the head over the centre of the shower.
○ Easier retrofit if ceiling work is a hassle.
● Twin rail or combo set
○ A rain head up top plus a separate hand shower on a rail.
○ Handy for cleaning the shower, bathing kids, and keeping hair dry on quick days.
● Flush or recessed panel
○ Built into the ceiling lining for a near-invisible look.
○ Typically higher budget, more planning, and careful waterproofing.
Sizes, flow rates and spray patterns
Bigger is not automatically better. Match the head to your pressure and space.
|
Head Size (diameter or width) |
Typical Flow Range at 300 kPa |
Coverage Feel |
Good For |
|
200 to 230 mm |
6 to 9 L/min |
Focused rain, less overspray |
900 x 900 mm showers, low ceilings |
|
250 to 300 mm |
7.5 to 10 L/min |
Full body coverage, balanced |
Most NZ family bathrooms |
|
350 to 400 mm |
9 to 12 L/min |
Luxuriously wide, slower droplets |
Large walk-ins, strong mains pressure |
● At lower pressures, a 400 mm head can feel weak. If you’re under 150 kPa, a 250 mm head often performs better.
● Nozzle design matters. Silicone tips with anti-scale nipples help maintain the spray pattern and are easier to clean.
● Many models use air-infusion or flow shaping to create a fuller feel at lower flow rates.
Water use in NZ homes
New Zealand uses the WELS label to rate water efficiency. For showers:
● 3-star heads are commonly around 9 L/min
● 4-star heads are often 7.5 L/min or lower
How that lands on your bill:
● A 10-minute shower at 9 L/min uses 90 litres
● A 10-minute shower at 7.5 L/min uses 75 litres
● Over a year at 300 showers, that’s a difference of 4,500 litres per person
Local water and wastewater charges vary by council, but a rough combined cost range sits around $3 to $8 per 1,000 litres. For a household of four, shifting from 12 L/min to 9 L/min could trim 36,000 litres a year, which is not just kinder to the network, it’s noticeable on the bill.
The energy side matters too. Heating water is one of the biggest energy loads at home. Less hot water used equals less power or gas burned. A 3 L/min reduction over a 10-minute shower saves about 0.63 kWh if the water is heated electrically, which can add up to hundreds of kilowatt-hours across a year for a family.
Pressure and plumbing realities in NZ homes
● Older cylinders: Many pre-1990 homes still have low pressure hot water cylinders that run at roughly 7 to 76 kPa. A wide rain head may feel too soft on these.
● Mains pressure: Modern homes and upgraded cylinders usually sit around 300 to 500 kPa. That’s perfect for most rain heads.
● Balanced pressure mixers: A must-have where water pressure varies between hot and cold. They keep temperature steady when someone flushes the loo.
● Pressure limits: Many mixers are rated to a maximum of 500 kPa. If your home pressure is higher, a limiting valve may be required to protect the fittings.
If you live in a low pressure house, you have options: swap to a smaller rain head, upgrade to mains pressure, or use a pump on a rural system. A test with a simple gauge on a laundry tap tells you where you stand.
Installation: retrofits vs new builds
Renovating an existing bathroom:
● Wall arm rain heads are the quickest retrofit if you can’t open the ceiling.
● Be ready to open some wall lining to secure the arm mounting and route pipework.
● If you’re changing from a single outlet to a twin combo, you’ll need an extra outlet line and a diverter mixer.
New builds or full renos:
● Ceiling mounting looks tidy when you can run pipes above, plan for rainfall distribution, and place nogs for solid fixing.
● Plan the head location early to centre it over the shower waste, optimizing your shower experience, and avoid splash outside the screen.
● Think about glass height. Many rain heads, often used in spa-like settings, sit 200 to 300 mm below the ceiling for comfortable access and to avoid water suction onto ceiling paint.
Time and cost signals:
● Simple swap to a wall rain arm can be a half-day to one-day plumbing job
● Ceiling mount with new pipe runs and bracing might push to 1 to 2 days, plus gib, plaster, paint, and waterproofing
● Always use a licensed plumber. NZ Building Code G12 sets temperature and safety requirements, including a 50 C limit on most outlets to prevent scalding.
Height, clearances and splash control
● Head height: Aim for 2,050 to 2,200 mm above finished floor, or at least 100 to 200 mm above the tallest regular user.
● Centre alignment: Place the head roughly above the waste to help keep water in the shower zone.
● Shower size: 900 x 900 mm is a common minimum. A 1,000 x 1,000 mm or 1,100 x 900 mm walk-in gives more elbow room with a wider head.
● Glass and lips: A 1,900 to 2,000 mm high screen helps contain mist. A tile fall of 1:80 to 1:100 towards the waste keeps water where it belongs.
Materials and finishes that last
● Stainless steel: 304 stainless is standard and resists rust well. 316 stainless adds extra corrosion resistance in coastal homes.
● Brass: Heavier, excellent durability, often used under decorative finishes.
● ABS: Lightweight and budget friendly. Good when paired with a brass arm.
● Finishes: Chrome is easy to live with. PVD finishes on brass resist scratches better than basic electroplate and come in matte black, brushed nickel, brushed gold, and gunmetal tones.
● Care factor: Dark finishes show water spots a bit more. A quick towel off keeps them looking sharp.
Heating and mixing: thermostatic vs standard
● Thermostatic mixers hold a set temperature even if pressure changes in the house. Great for busy households, kids, and anyone who hates sudden cold bursts.
● Pressure-balanced mixers stabilise temperature by balancing hot and cold pressures but are not quite as precise as a true thermostatic unit.
● NZ rules limit outlet temperature to help prevent scalds. Many thermostatic mixers include a 38 to 40 C safety stop that you can override with a button.
Cleaning and care in our water conditions
NZ water is generally on the softer side, especially in Auckland and Christchurch, which is kind to fixtures. Wellington and some provincial areas can be slightly harder.
● Wipe after showers with a microfibre cloth to dodge spots on dark finishes.
● Once a month, run your hand over the silicone nozzles to break up any scale.
● Vinegar solution works well on stubborn spots. Soak a cloth, wrap it over the head for 20 minutes, then rinse.
● Avoid abrasive creams and harsh pads that can scratch coatings.
Budgeting: what things really cost in NZ
A lot depends on brand, finish, and whether you’re pairing the head with a new mixer and hand shower.
● Rain heads
○ Entry ABS heads: $120 to $250
○ Mid brass or stainless: $250 to $600
○ Large designer or ceiling panels: $600 to $1,500+
● Arms and rails
○ Wall arms: $80 to $250
○ Ceiling drops: $120 to $300
○ Twin rail sets with diverter: $350 to $1,200
● Mixers
○ Standard mixer: $150 to $400
○ Thermostatic or premium diverters: $350 to $900
● Installation
○ Straight swap on wall: from $450
○ New pipe runs and ceiling mount: $800 to $1,800
○ Full reno with waterproofing and tiling: project dependent
These are ballpark figures and assume licensed trades. If you’re switching from low pressure to mains, factor in a cylinder upgrade, which is a separate cost line but a big uplift in everyday comfort.
Common myths
● Big heads always use more water
○ Not if they’re WELS rated. A 300 mm head can run at 7.5 to 9 L/min and feel great.
● Rain showers are useless on low pressure
○ They’re weaker on low pressure, yes, but smaller heads with smart nozzles can still perform. The best fix is upgrading to mains pressure.
● You can’t have a hand shower with a rain head
○ Combo sets are common and practical. They’re a favourite in family homes.
● Ceiling mounts always leak
○ Proper waterproofing, solid fixing, and licensed installation solve this. Thousands of Kiwi homes use them daily without drama.
A few real bathroom layouts that work in NZ homes
- 900 x 900 mm tiled corner shower in a villa reno
○ 250 mm wall arm rain head to suit modest space and slightly lower ceiling
○ 3-star flow rate at 9 L/min for water savings
○ Hand shower on rail for flexibility
○ Frameless glass with a 1:100 fall to a centre waste
- 1,100 x 900 mm walk-in in a modern townhouse
○ 300 mm ceiling-mounted head at 2,100 mm height
○ Thermostatic mixer with 2-way diverter to a hand shower
○ Brushed nickel finish to match tapware and towel rail
○ Linear waste near the back wall to keep the entry dry
- Family bathroom upgrade in a 1990s home
○ Switch from low pressure to mains pressure cylinder
○ 300 mm rain head plus rail set, both on one wall to simplify plumbing, providing consistent rainfall-like water flow
○ 4-star flow on the rain head for lower bills
○ Matte black fittings with a daily wipe routine to keep them looking tidy
Quick buying checklist
● Pressure: What’s your current hot water pressure in kPa?
● Size: Does the head size suit your shower area and ceiling height?
● Flow rating: WELS stars and litres per minute that match your water and energy goals.
● Mount type: Wall arm, ceiling drop, or twin rail set.
● Mixer: Thermostatic for stability or standard mixer for simplicity.
● Finish: Chrome for easy care or PVD finishes for a modern look.
● Maintenance: Anti-scale nozzles, spare parts availability, and warranty terms.
● Installation: Can your current pipework support it, or is a reno planned?
Why a rain shower feels different
It comes down to droplet size and velocity. Many rain heads create larger droplets at a slightly lower speed, which spreads the sensation over your skin. With a wider faceplate, you’re under the spray more fully, so rinsing can actually be quicker even at a lower flow.
Acoustics play a part as well. The sound is softer compared to a sharp jet. That change in noise is one of those small details that makes the spa space feel calmer.
What to look for in the specs
● Minimum operating pressure in kPa. If it says 150 kPa minimum and your system delivers 100 kPa, you won’t get the intended effect.
● Flow restrictors and WELS rating. Keeps you compliant and predictive on water use.
● Build materials. Brass bodies and stainless faceplates deliver long-term reliability.
● Swivel ball joint. Lets you fine-tune the angle, even on ceiling drops.
● Thermostatic limits and safety stop around 38 to 40 C.
Where to place the mixer
A small detail, big daily impact:
● Put the mixer near the entry so you can turn it on without stepping under the spray.
● Run the outlet lines up the same wall to avoid crossing hot and cold.
● For twin sets, use a two-way diverter for simple switching between rain head and hand shower.
How Domenic Bathroom Ware helps Kiwi homes get it right
Since 2020, our Auckland team has been helping homeowners, renovators, designers, and builders set up bathrooms that feel good to live with every day. We keep things straightforward: solid advice, well-made products, and clear pricing.
What you can find in our range:
● Vanities in modern, minimal lines
● LED mirrors and mirror cabinets
● Basins for compact ensuites and family spaces
● Tapware in durable finishes
● Toilet suites
● Acrylic and composite stone baths
● Heated towel rails
● Shower units and rain sets
● Bathroom accessories to pull the room together
We work directly with trusted manufacturers so the fittings you pick look the part, hold up to daily use, and enhance your shower experience. If you’re comparing a 250 mm versus a 300 mm head, checking whether a thermostatic mixer is worth it for your family, or trying to keep a project under a set budget, we can run through the trade-offs in plain language.
You’re welcome to see everything in person at our showroom:
● 15 Olive Road, Auckland
Bring a floor plan and a couple of photos on your phone. We’ll help you pin down the right size, flow rating, and finish, plus talk through installation steps with your plumber. If you’re after a full look, we can pair the rain head with matching mixers, a vanity, and a mirror cabinet so the whole space looks consistent without blowing the budget.
A quick example spec list to take to your plumber
● Head: 300 mm round rain head, 7.5 to 9 L/min, PVD brushed nickel, silicone nozzles
● Mount: 200 mm ceiling dropper, brass
● Combo: Add a hand shower on a rail with a 1.5 m hose
● Mixer: Thermostatic two-way diverter, 500 kPa max
● Height: 2,100 mm from finished floor to head underside
● Drain: 50 mm waste with 1:100 fall
● Glass: 2,000 mm height, 1,100 x 900 mm footprint
● Waterproofing: Full membrane to manufacturer specs
That level of detail saves time on site and helps avoid surprise changes.
Final tip for a better everyday shower
If you like long showers but want to keep bills in check, pick a WELS 3 or 4-star rain head and a thermostatic mixer. You get the wide, gentle feel with stable temperature, yet your water and power use can stay under control. It’s a small bit of planning that pays off every single day.
Ready to try options, compare finishes, or map out your bathroom project? Pop into Domenic Bathroom Ware in Auckland or get in touch and we’ll help you get the details right from the start. Where everyday luxury begins, without the fuss.